Thursday 19 July 2012

Death & Bereavement in Africa...Pt 1


We were less than 4 weeks into married life…it was a Monday night and we had just come back from my husband’s shop. We were chilling at home, watching TV when my husband received a phone call. His uncle had been very ill over the weekend and was now in hospital. My husband went into a panic over needing someone’s phone number and when he realised he had left his blackberry at the shop he went back out to get it.

Whilst he was gone I sat in my chair, wondering how I would cope with a grieving husband if the worst were to happen. I had hoped the worst wouldn’t happen, but couldn’t help but pray and ask God to prepare me for whatever difficult situation might be on its way. I was in a brand new country, with a brand new marriage – these adaptations were already enough to cope with! I did not know how I would be able to manage a possible bereavement too!

A few hours later, what I feared the most had come upon me – my husband’s uncle (whom he loved so dearly) had passed away. When we received the news my husband cried like a child…All I could do was hold him. I felt bad and was in shock at this seemingly untimely news. I knew I had to be there to support my husband, but the events that followed, I was not prepared for.

The very next morning, another of my husband’s uncles was travelling from Togo to Ghana, where his late uncle had lived with his family. We decided to go with him. After an approximate 3-hour drive we arrived at the house. I couldn’t help but be worried about what would come as I would see all his children and his wife. I knew they would be devastated and there would be nothing anyone could do to comfort them. As I got out of the car I could hear a woman screaming in the house. Her screams were like screams of agony. It was almost unbearable. As I got inside there was sadness everywhere, as was to be expected. The children were crying and others were sitting there silently with sad faces. The screaming was coming from a room in the house and continued for about 10 minutes.

Throughout the day many, many people came to the house to offer their condolences. Some were silently sympathetic, but others screamed and wailed, some even threw themselves on the floor. This heightened emotion was all very new to me and I can only describe it as a culture shock. At one point, the atmosphere became too much for me and I had to leave the house and go for a brief walk. Whilst walking I burst out crying. Not so much because of the death, but because of the intensity of the situation. The atmosphere was so unfamiliar and very overwhelming and at that moment, there was no one there who would have understood exactly where I was coming from. I was the only foreigner. I was the only one who had never experienced such a thing in my life. To everyone else this was normal. It may not have been welcome, but it was normal. I decided to dry my tears and get my act together. This was not about me after all and my main purpose was to be a support to my husband and to the family if at all possible.

The next day, before going back to Togo, we had to go to the mortuary to view the body. I knew this would not be an easy affair, but knowing full well that after death the body becomes only a shell I was not afraid of going to see it. I was mostly worried about how the family members would react seeing their beloved uncle, father, brother lying there, lifeless.

Whilst on the way to the morgue, I did not know exactly what to expect. All I knew was that we were not in Europe, we were in Africa, so the conditions would certainly not be to European standards, but as long as everyone could view the body and leave peacefully that was the main thing. When we got there, we had to wait a while, until we were told that the body was ready. As we entered the room, the first thing that hit me was the smell. It was an indescribable stench. I suddenly could not bear to breathe in. There were flies everywhere and also several dead bodies – and people working on the dead bodies in front of us! I did not expect that...at all. I saw a glimpse of my husband’s uncle, who was laid towards the back of the room. After that I had to make a quick exit.  Had I known that the mortuary setting would be like that, I would never have gone…

Shortly afterwards, we headed back to Togo and the family began to make plans for the funeral, which would happen a month later.

To be continued in my next blog…

Tuesday 10 July 2012

I 'Heart' Togo!


In my last blog “Homesick” I promised that I would share with you some of the things I love the most about my new temporary home country, Togo! So, here goes…


Living near the Beach
I currently live about a 10-15 minute walk from the beach, which is great! No such possibility in London! Living so close means my husband and I can go for leisurely walks on Sunday afternoons or enjoy the ocean breeze on hot days.

The pets at the Family House
At the family house in Lome, there is quite a bit of outdoor space and my father-in-law, an animal lover , has many pets. He has goats and rabbits (which he sells on occasion) a kitten, a budgie a dog (of course) and a monkey, which I love!  He says his next pet is a parrot!

Very Affordable Beauty Treatments
Here in Togo, beauty treatments don’t have to be a luxury as they often are in good old London! I can get my hair washed, blow-dried and set for 400 francs (equivalent of about 50p) and a full manicure and pedicure for 3,000cfa (about £4.00)!

Extremely Affordable Tailoring!
Togo is great for getting your own clothes custom-made. The market has a wide range of fabrics to choose from – both African print and European fabrics. The tailoring is so low cost that you could afford to get a whole new wardrobe! My husband recently ordered 5 tailor-made dresses for me. Grand total for workmanship: approx. £30.00!

French!
The main language in Togo is French.  All of the signage and billboards are in French and the majority of TV programmes and films have French voice-overs .  Instead of seeing this as an obstacle, I see it as an opportunity to learn a brand new (and rather fabulous) language!

Siesta!
Siesta is common practice here in Togo. In the middle of the day many workers go home for lunch a few hours’ rest and then head back to work. Although I find it hard to rest during the day, I think the concept is great and it’s a far cry from London’s rat race culture, where siesta is definitely not a possibility!

Interesting Outdoor Places to Chill
In Togo, you can find many gardens and parks that have been fitted with places where you can go to eat drink and listen to music. These places are great as they are in the middle of nature - surrounded by beautiful trees and flowers and some, near the water! They are great for fun times with friends or chilling with your significant other!

Fried Sweet Potato, Spaghetti and Degue!
Believe it or not I had never eaten fried sweet potato before coming to Togo. In my culture we always boiled it or sometimes even mashed it! In Togo, it’s common to eat fried sweet potato with chicken sausage, noodles and a tomato and onion sauce.  I have to say I really enjoy it! Another Togo speciality is hot spaghetti, which can come in a red sauce, with chicken sausage or beef, onions, peppers and mayo. There are places in Togo that only sell spaghetti as it’s very popular
Something sweeter is a favourite of mine called Degue (pron. “deg-eh”). It’s sweet cous-cous with youghurt – really nice  J

Moto-Culture!
The main form of transport in Togo is the motorbike! There are taxis available, but most people have their own motorbike or get around on a “taxi-moto” or “zemidjan” as they call it here in Togo – basically you hail down a motorbike, tell the driver where you’re going, agree on a price, get on the back of the bike and off you go! This means there is hardly any traffic on the streets of Lome – the complete opposite to traffic-ridden Accra!

These are just a few things I love, as well as the outdoor swimming pools, night-time candy stalls and more. Indeed I still miss my hometown from time to time, but I am glad to have found these little treasures in Togo! 
J